Friday, May 13, 2011

Sewing Tutorial: How to make an overlay-style nursing t-shirt top

The idea here is basically the same as the nursing style tank, except we have sleeves to deal with, which makes things a little more difficult, but not too much. If you need more detailed instructions, check out the nursing tank tutorial. I will try to abbreviate this one a bit to save myself some writing. Here is the finished shirt:


You will need:

2 t-shirts of the same size
Scissors
Thread
Sewing machine
3/8" elastic


Put on t-shirt #1 and cut two vertical slits, one over each side of your bra. Put on t-shirt #2 and mark with a pin 2 inches below your bust line.

Zig zag around the openings of t-shirt #1, making sure that the zig zag is off the fabric for half the stitch. Pull on the t-shirt as you sew so the zig zag will have some stretch to it.

Now start cutting. You will cut the side seams (all the way through the bottom of the sleeves) on both shirts.


 Then you will cut the sleeves off, following the seams.


Lastly, cut the shoulder seams on both shirts. You should have 2 fronts, 2 backs, and four sleeves. Discard 2 of the sleeves and one back (or save them to make something matching for baby :).


Now, take t-shirt #2 front and cut it off at the length you marked with the pin (2 inches below bust). Pin a hem by folding the fabric over 1/4", followed by 1/2", all the way across the bottom of the shirt (the folded part should be on the inside of the shirt).


Stitch the hem close to the upper fold (about 1/16"). Then cut a piece of elastic the same length as the hem if it won't need to stretch, or the actual size of your under-bust front measurement if the shirt will need to stretch.

Using a safety pin attached to the end of the elastic, guide it through the hem.


Now, stack the shirt fronts, right side up, with the cropped front on top of the longer front.


Now stack the shirt back (wrong side/inside up) on top of the fronts. Pin shoulders and stitch together, using a 3/8 to 1/2" seam allowance.


This next step is sort of tricky. Open up the shirt and lay it on the table (right side up). Get your sleeves and pin them onto the shirt. Make sure to hold them up to the arm opening before you start pinning. On my shirt, the front part of the sleeve was smaller than the back. After they are pinned in place, stitch the seam.


The last step, which I didn't take a picture of, is to stitch the side seams. Turn the shirt inside-out and pin the side seams all the way through the sleeves, then stitch using a 3/8 to 1/2" seam allowance. Be sure you get all of the layers in the stitch. It can be sort of tricky when working with so many layers, so watch carefully. And there you have it :)

Sewing Tutorial: How to make an overlay-style nursing tank top/undershirt


When I started looking into specially-designed nursing tops, I noticed one thing that they all have in common--they are expensive (as in $17-70 expensive)! I made this nursing tank for about $8. This pattern/tutorial will show you how to make it. Here's what you will need:


-Two tank tops of the same size (I would suggest the same color also, but whatever floats your boat. I got mine at Wal-Mart for about $3 each)
-Thread to match
-A sewing machine, unless you really want to sew by hand, but it will take a lot longer that way
-Sewing pins and a safety pin
-3/8" braided elastic (the amount will vary here, depending on the measurement under your bust)
-Sharp scissors

1. Put on one of the tank tops. While wearing the tank top, cut a vertical slit centered over each side of your bra (big enough to allow easy access). This will be the "under" tank top.


Using a wide zig zag stitch with a fairly short stitch length, zig zag around each opening. Make sure that one side of the stitch comes OFF the fabric. This will help the raw edges not to fray in the wash. Also, pull on the fabric just a little bit as you are going around. This will ensure that the openings can stretch a bit.


Your shirt should look like this: If you know that you will only be wearing the tank top under low-cut shirts or dresses, you could stop here. However, if you want to be able to pair it with cardigans or wear it solo, keep going.



2. Now put on the other tank top. Look in the mirror, and put a sewing pin about 2 inches under your bust line (where the bottom of your bra hits). This tank top will become the overlay. Then take the tank top off.

3. Here's the next step. You are going to cut along all the seams on both shirts, so that you are left with two shirt fronts and two shirt backs. Discard one of the shirt backs. You will only need one. Keep both of the fronts.



4. Cut along the "under bust" line you marked with the pin.


5. Now flip the shirt over so the inside of the shirt is facing up. You will fold the bottom up about 1/4 inch...


...then fold over again about half an inch and pin.


Do this all the way across the bottom,


Using a straight stitch, sew across the top edge of the hem (about 1/16" away from the fold). Pull on the fabric a bit as you go so the stitches will have some stretch.


6. Measure your elastic. If the shirt won't need to stretch, make it the same width as the cropped shirt front. If it will need to stretch, make it as wide as your under bust front where the cropped overly will fall.


Using a safety pin attached to he end of the elastic, guide it through the overlay hem.



Pin the elastic on each side to be flush with the edge, even if it has to bunch a bit in the middle to fit.


7. Now you have the overlay, front, and back (your front should have the vertical slits cut--I just did mine in a slightly different order)


With shirt front outsides facing up, lay the overlay over the slitted front.


Next, lay the shirt back (inside facing up) over the shirt fronts and pin. The outside of both shirt fronts should face the outside of the shirt back.


 Using  a 1/2 inch seam allowance and straight stitch, stitch all raw edges together (be sure to reverse when you start and stop).


Turn rightside out, and voila! You're done.


A cheap,easy, cute and discreet nursing tank!